Welcome to the team, and a personal thanks for your service and commitment to our Nation. I am once again in a fortunate position to assist Camp Patriot in organizing an ascent of Mt. Rainier in Washington State. At an altitude of 14,411 feet, Mt. Rainier is widely considered one of the great mountaineering challenges of the lower 48 states. Mt. Rainier is the most heavily glaciated peak in the U.S. (outside of Alaska) and although not the tallest peak, it is considered by most as being one the most difficult. The 26 major glaciers which encompass the mountains massif, and the numerous rocky volcanic ridges and buttresses create for a remarkable environment. Our particular climbing route is named the Ingraham Glacier/Disappointment Cleaver route. This modern day route is essentially the same one taken by the first ascent party of Philemon Van Trump and Gen. Hazard Stevens in 1870.

The climb begins at Paradise (5,400' elevation), where the main National Park visitor's center and classic log lodge is located. Paradise is located on the S.E. quadrant of the mountain, and was constructed in the early 1900's. In early July, the trail ascending from Paradise will be mostly snow covered with intermittent snow free sections of dirt with rock and log steps. We will hike above tree line at approximately 6,200 feet, above which the trail steepens a bit as we head towards Pebble Creek. This first day is non-technical and it will not be necessary to be 'roped up'. The objective is to reach Camp Muir at an elevation of 10,080 feet.

Pebble Creek (7,200' elevation) marks the beginning of the Muir Snowfield. This snowfield is a perennial mass of snow, which leads us safely between heavily crevassed glaciers to the Cowlitz Cleaver, where Camp Muir is located. As the team hikes up the snowfield, we will discuss and apply very basic but critical energy saving techniques such as the 'Rest Step' and 'Pressure Breathing'. The view is spectacular with the Nisqually Glacier and Ice Fall to the west, and the upper summit ice dome taunting us from high above. It is not uncommon to see and hear ice blocks calving off from within the Nisqually Ice Fall as we ascend to Camp Muir. It will be a full day to reach Camp Muir and it is always a welcome sight.

Camp Muir (Muir for short) is named after John Muir who was one of the original pioneers of this now popular camp site. The camp is in the saddle of a rocky ridge named the Cowlitz Cleaver. A 'Cleaver' on Rainier is defined as a rock ridge or buttress which separates, or cleaves, two glaciers. In this case the Cowlitz Cleaver is the demarcation of the Muir Snowfield and the Cowlitz Glacier. This is where the real climbing begins. Glaciers, by definition, are flowing masses of thick ice and are riddled with crevasses due to the differential flow rates of the ice mass. From Muir to the summit, we will climb on glaciers and steep volcanic rock ridges, and as such, will be roped together for protection in individual rope teams of 3 to 5 climbers. Muir is a collection of old rock shelters (circa 1920), and a few modern one-holers. We will set up tents for our camp off the north side of the ridge, just on the fringe of the Cowlitz Glacier.

Our second day will be spent entirely at and around Muir. This will be a training day. As a team we will begin to focus on the techniques which will allow us to climb safely and efficiently. We will review the previous day and advance on to the more technical skills of ice axe self arrest, crampon and foot work, team rope travel, team arrest, etc. At over 10,000 feet, we will also focus on remaining well hydrated and fed in preparation for the next big step. The team will rack out early after our training day, as we will make our bid for the summit early in the morning, usually about midnight. By beginning our climb in the pre-dawn hours, we gain the advantage of having frozen snow conditions which limits the potential of ice fall, rock fall, snow bridge collapse, etc. This becomes especially important on the descent.

On our summit day we are roped together in individual rope teams with at least one or two professional climbing guides on each team. Most of these guides I have known for years and are perhaps some of the best mountaineers (and more importantly, big mountain climbing instructors) in America. On Camp Patriot's past Rainier expeditions, two of the licensed guide services for Mt. Rainier, Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI) and International Mountain Guides (IMG), have provided us with incredible assets and support. This year they have both committed to the same level of involvement.

Crampons strapped on, ice axes in hand, harnessed and roped up, we leave camp under the lights from our headlamps, and make a slow ascending traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier to the base of Cathedral Ridge. This will be our first encounter with rock on the route and can be a bit frustrating after the steady cadence gained while crossing the Cowlitz.

The slope up to Cathedral Gap is not steep, but is comprised of loose volcanic pumice and wobbly bowling ball sized boulders, which require focus to maintain a steady pace and breathing. Cathedral Gap is a low saddle within Cathedral Ridge and allows us to cross over to the Ingraham Glacier. Once at the gap, we only need to 'scramble' up the ridge a bit to gain the short traverse to what is known as the Ingraham Flats. This low angled area of the glacier is relatively free of crevasses and safely away from other objective hazards (mainly rock and ice fall), which will allow us to group up for our first rest break.

Rest breaks are as brief as possible on our summit climb, only enabling us an opportunity to regroup, rehydrate, fuel up, and assess conditions. Following our first break at 'The Flats', we will traverse the Ingraham Glacier and gain the exposed ledge systems which provides us access to the base of Disappointment Cleaver. 'The Cleaver' is a 1,200' vertical rock island, which separates the Ingraham and Emmons Glaciers. Most consider this section the crux of the climb. Comprised of loose volcanic rock ledges, and steep snow slopes, the Cleaver is a true lung burner! When we reach the top of the Cleaver (12,300'), the sun will just be rising, and we will absolutely feel our place high on the mountain.

The route above Disappointment Cleaver is back on glaciers and can vary drastically from season to season. On our 2007 trip, the route almost immediately traversed well on to the Emmons glacier due to huge crevasses and steep seracs (free standing blocks of ice), directly above the Cleaver. The 2008 route was a bit more direct above Cleaver, but by the time we climbed to our last rest break, at about 13,500, the route was essentially the same.

This variation in routes is due largely to the constant movement of the glaciers and variable winter snowpack. Some believe there are thermal hot spots beneath the glaciers, deep in the volcanoes core, which also contribute to this variation in glacial topography through time. In fact, we will see and smell evidence of this thermal activity from fumaroles and steam vents on the Cleaver and at the summit crater.

Mt. Rainier is a dormant volcano, last erupting about 2,000 years ago, when the present crater was formed. From our last break on the very upper reaches of the Ingraham Glacier, our team will ascend the summit ice dome, and reach the summit crater rim at an elevation of roughly 14,200 feet. The crater is completely filled with snow and ice, with only the rocky rim of the crater exposed periodically around its circumference.

The 'true summit' is a bump of rock and snow on this rim, directly across from where our route tops out - ¼ mile away and 211 feet higher. If the weather, time, and group condition permits, we can hike this remaining bit to gain the highest point on Rainier, Columbia Crest, at 14,411 feet ASL. After a brief period at the summit crater, refueling and the obligatory photo op, the team will begin the demanding decent back to Muir. If all goes well, we should be back in camp by mid-day, off the upper mountain before the potential heat of the afternoon.

The weather can obviously be one of the many hazards of the mountain. As moist frontal systems off the Pacific collide with the massif of Rainier, huge storms can result, with high winds and large amounts of precipitation. Adverse weather can make even the relatively low elevations of the Muir Snowfield a treacherous place. The unique conditions on Mt. Rainier have made it a test piece for many teams training for the big mountains of the world.

Again, welcome to the team, and I am looking forward to another incredible adventure on Mt. Rainier. - Curtis Fawley